I got lost on my way to La Beppa. The general advice when navigating Venice is to look up rather than down, as the signs to the major locations are rather higher than you expect. But this sign didn’t really help the situation. So round and round I went until I found the locality I was searching for in Castello, one of the largest and most local residential areas of Venice. Not many tourists find their way here, and I only just did. I was heading for La Beppa, perhaps my all time anywhere favourite ironmonger which sells pigments as well as floor cleaners, fresco brushes alongside saucepans, thread for any use in amongst the kitchen knives. The window, or part of it as you approach what looks like a row of different shops, looks like this:
I spent far too much on treasures such as true Venetian Red (glowing in the box in the same way the buildings have glowed here every day so far), a range of earth colours from the soil of Italy, and a fantastically expensive (I bought 50 grammes only) purple fit for an Emperor, which didn’t photograph very well, so I’ll show you the Umber – Terra Ombra Cipro Bruciata to be precise – with its label detailing all ingredients:
Fitting, really, because I am off to Umbria on Sunday, where I shall be out of internet and mobile range for a week, leaving this extraordinary city far too early: I came for 3 weeks and could easily stay 50 times that and still find things to write about. In fact, I’ve got a few more posts in the offing as work here has rather taken over from blogging and I’m behind with my Variations, so if I don’t get the blogs in before I go, I’ll post them from England….